Engagement Ring Basics

The engagement ring and wedding band are something you will wear everyday for the rest of your life, so you need to give a great deal of thought to their selection. Historically, diamonds have been the favorite choice for engagement rings, but these days emeralds, rubies, sapphires, pearls and other non-traditional gems provide for truly unique ring design. When selecting an engagement ring, use your heart and your head. Take the time to understand how to get the best quality ring for your investment.

To get started, you will need to:

• set a budget
  • generally two month's salary, but this depends on other financial goals you may have such as purchasing a home, etc.
• find a reputable jeweler that
  • is willing to discuss your budget, style requirements & the 4 Cs of diamond selection. This is a major investment, so if your jeweler is not interested in educating you about what you are getting for your money, then you need to find another jeweler.
  • will help you select the best gem based on your budget and your style
  • provides certified documentation regarding the quality of the diamond you are purchasing
• select a style and gem type that suits you and your lifestyle
• use the 4 Cs of diamond selection to make a sound investment

  

A Quick Lesson in the 4 Cs of Diamond Selection
It is critical that you know what you are buying when it comes to diamonds, so please see our detailed information on the 4 Cs of diamond selection. Here is a quick rundown of the 4 Cs to help you begin to understand what impacts the quality and cost the diamond engagement ring.

Carat Weight:

How Diamonds are weighed. The higher the weight, the more rare the diamond.

Clarity:

Clarity grades inform you of any inclusions (natural internal flaws) or blemishes (external flaws) that a diamond has. Range from flawless F to imperfect I3.

Color:

Diamonds with no color are the most valuable. The color scale begins with D (colorless) and ends with Z (light yellow or brown).

Cut:

The better the cut of the diamond, the more light it reflects. Cut is not the same thing as diamond shape (marquis, pear, etc.)

Please see below for details on each characteristic and the underlying characteristics that make up each of the 4 Cs.

Cut:

• Though often confused with the shape of a diamond, cut actually refers to a diamond's proportions and its ability to reflect light. Diamonds are usually cut with 58 facets (show graphic). Facets are cut at precise angles in proportion to one another in order to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond, thus increasing its sparkle. In a best case scenario, 50% of the weight of a diamond is lost from the original crystal during the cutting process. Because size is important to many consumers, diamond cutters may sacrifice diamond beauty in order to save the weight of the finished diamond.
• Cut is the most important aspect of a diamond's beauty. Regardless of color, clarity, or carat weight, a well-cut diamond will be beautiful. Cut is such an important factor that it can affect the value of your diamond by 25 to more than 50%.
• When you talk about cut, most consumers think in terms of shape, but cut and shape are entirely different. Not one of the 4 Cs, but a critical factor with regard to expressing individual style in diamond selection, shape refers to the basic form of the diamond. You may choose from the ever-popular oval, pear, round, marquis, radiant, emerald or heart shaped diamonds, or look for the new and interesting shapes being developed each year. For more aspects on measuring the quality of the cut, see below.

  

More on the Cut

See below for terms that measure the quality of a cut.

• Ideal Cut
  A diamond cut to optimal proportions, with optimal polish & symmetry. Diamonds cut to this standard are the most valuable, with only 5% of round brilliant diamonds on the market cut to this standard.
• Well-Cut
  Diamonds that have very good optical beauty, but fall just outside the parameters of the Ideal Cut diamond. Priced less than ideal cuts because they are not as rare.
• Deep Cut
  Diamond appears smaller than it weighs because its weight is retained in its depth. It is cut with a deep pavilion (bottom) that does not properly reflect light, so the diamond appears dark.
• Shallow Cut
  Diamond appears larger than it weighs because its weight is retained in its width. It is cut with shallow pavilions that do not properly reflect light back through the crown (top of the diamond). These appear washed out or watery.
• Bow Tie
  A dark area in the center of some fancy-shaped diamonds.

See below for other terms used to grade the quality of the cut.

• Girdle
  Outer edge of the diamond. The girdle does not affect the diamond's value, but often reflects a particular style preference of the diamond cutter. Some may be faceted or frosted. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness: Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick or Extremely Thick. Sometimes the rating will reflect a range and style, for example - Slightly Thick to Thick Faceted.
• Culet
  Culet bottom point of diamond. Sometimes this point actually has a small facet, and is graded in terms of its size. Fore example - None (or Pointed), Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, Extremely Large. Less is more in this case, so look for a diamond with the smallest culet possible.
• Polish
  Polish refers to finishing or final polishing of the facets. The diamond cutter should strive to make your diamond free from polishing imperfections which are commonly graded as follows: Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good or Excellent. Make sure your diamond has a polishing grade of Good or better.
• Symmetry
  Symmetry refers to alignment and positioning of the facets. Facets should be in proper proportion to other facets or the diamond may appear uneven. Symmetry graded as: Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good or Excellent. Make sure your diamond has a symmetry grade of Good or better.

Color

Colorless diamonds are of the highest quality. Diamonds are graded alphabetically on a scale ranging from D through Z. A grade D diamond represents the finest colorless stone, while Z represents a diamond that may appear light yellow or brown. Diamonds on the lower end of this scale will sometimes appear cloudy to the naked eye. Color is caused by the presence of trace elements like nitrogen that appear as carbon crystals. Traces of the elements are so small that they are measured in parts per million (ppm). Since determining color gradation of diamonds is difficult (even for the experts), it is best to compare diamonds graded by either the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gem Society (AGS) to get an accurate color grading. Most consumers cannot detect the difference in color grades with the naked eye unless the diamonds are several grades apart. If your budget permits, select a diamond with a color grade of K or better. Fancy color - Diamonds occur in certain colors by rare accident. Shades of pink, blue, green or amber are referred to as fancies and are graded on different set of color standards. Fancies are often more expensive than colorless diamonds, because they are even more rare.

Fluorescence refers to a diamonds' ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV (or black) light, many diamonds give off a blue coloration. Fluorescence may appear in other colors, but blue is most common for diamonds. It is graded as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. Fluorescence is rarely an issue, unless the intensity is Strong or Very Strong. In high grade colors fluorescence should be very low; however, strong fluorescence is desirable in lower grade colors like J and lower. Keep the color grade in mind if you are concerned about fluorescence.

Clarity

Clarity is determined by two characteristics - inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions are naturally occurring marks internal to the diamond, while blemishes are surface irregularities . To determine clarity, an expert views it under a 10 power magnification. The fewer the imperfections, the rarer and more valuable the diamond. Many inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. As you can see from the clarity rating scale, SI2 represents the level at which inclusions generally are not apparent to the naked eye.

Higher clarity does not really improve the beauty of the diamond, but rather the rarity and price. Look for diamonds with clarity of SI2 or better.

Carat Weight

Carat weight is often compared to diamond size - the larger the diamond, the greater the weight. Historically, the term carat is derived from the carob tree. The tree's seeds were known for their uniformity and consistent weight and, therefore, used to weigh gems. Eventually the system was standardized and one carat was fixed at .2 grams. A carat is divided into 100 points, which means a half-carat diamond weighs .50 points. The rarity of a diamond is greatly determined by its size. The larger the diamond, the more rare it is.

The Setting

The setting refers to the prongs that enclose the diamond and attach to the ring band. Talk you jeweler to make sure that the setting you select not only enhances the beauty of your diamond, but also protects against loss. With regard to round diamonds, six prong settings are better than four, since they provide an added level of protection against stone loss.

The Band

The band provides another opportunity to personalize and individualize ring selection. This applies to both engagement ring or wedding band selection. The standard plain gold band is still a favorite, but nowadays you can custom design rings and settings, select from different finishes, have bands hand-carved or have personal messages engraved on the inside of the band. See below to learn more about common finishes.

• Gold
  Naturally yellow in color, this metallic mineral is easily formed into various shapes. That is why it has been widely used among jewelers and artisans for centuries. Gold has a specific gravity that is quite heavy for a metallic mineral. In its purest form, gold is 24 karat, which is too soft for most jewelry use. As a result, gold is commonly mixed or alloyed with other minerals to increase its strength. It is common to see 18k or 14k gold jewelry. 18 karat gold reflects an alloy that contains 18/24 parts gold, or is 75% pure. 14k gold jewelry is almost 60% pure.
  
• Silver
  Naturally gray in color, pure silver is hardened with copper to make it more durable. This combination is referred to as sterling silver and should bear the stamp .925 sterling.
• Platinum
  Naturally gray in color, this metallic mineral is even heavier than gold. Platinum is used in a nearly pure alloy for jewelry (usually 90%), which makes for a much heavier ring than the same piece designed in gold. Platinum should bear the designation PLAT 950 or PLAT 900 (PLAT IRID). Platinum will cost 2-4 times as much as the same piece of jewelry made in gold due to its density and the special techniques required for its manufacture.

Caring for your Diamond

• Storage
  Store diamond jewelry in cloth pouches or a fabric lined jewelry box with separate dividers. This will help prevent scratching.
• Cleaning
  Do not clean your diamond with toothpaste. The abrasives in toothpaste will slowly dull the metal of your setting. You can purchase jewelry cleaner from a variety of retail stores or from your jeweler. Ask your jeweler if you need to avoid certain chemicals or brands of cleaners based on the diamond or its setting.
• Extended Care
  Jewelry should not be worn while participating in sporting activities or heavy labor. Do not allow gold jewelry to come in contact with chlorine and bleach. Repeated exposure to even small amounts of these chemicals adds up, and can cause gold to become brittle and susceptible to breaks and prong failure.

Lab Reports
The exact quality of a diamond is critical to its value. A diamond graded improperly by only the slightest margin could dramatically affect its perceived value. Your jeweler should provide certification of your diamond regarding weight, proportions, finish, clarity and color. It is important that an independent gemological laboratory grade your diamond, and that they be internationally recognized for the highest standards and institutional ethics.

Other Jewelry

Bride
Make sure whatever jewelry you select meets two requirements:

1. It is keeping with the style and cut of your dress
2. It does not detract from your dress, but serves to compliment it.

Diamonds, costume jewelry and pearls are all common choices for bridal jewelry. Consider the cut of your dress and your wedding day hairstyle when selecting jewelry. Earrings, necklaces and bracelets are all great accessories to the perfect dress, and often provide a opportunity to include sentimental objects from family members and friends on your wedding day. Grandmother's pearl necklace may provide the something borrowed, while loan of your maid of honor's sapphire bracelet gives you something blue. Let's not forget something new, either. Buying jewelry to match your gown is a great idea, but don't go over board. Buy inexpensive costume jewelry or pieces that can be used for occasions well beyond your wedding day.

Here's a checklist of some jewelry items you may want to consider, but remember…less is more.

Earrings
Necklace
Bracelet
Tiara
Decorative Hair Pins & Combs

Pearls
Pearls provide an elegant jewelry choice well suited to both modern and traditional gowns. Pearls are created when a shell fragment gets trapped inside of an oyster and the oyster secretes a protective covering called a nacre. Freshwater pearls are naturally occurring, while cultured pearls are created by mimicking the natural process under manmade conditions. Cultured pearls are rounder in shape. Pearls come in a variety of colors including cream, pink, peach and black, and are available in styles and sizes to suit every dress type.

Bridesmaids

Make sure whatever jewelry you select meets two requirements:

1. It is keeping with the style and cut of your dress.
2. It does not detract from your dress, but serves to compliment it.

Brides often purchase matching jewelry for bridesmaids to be worn on the wedding day and to serve as a gift for their participation in the ceremony. You can get great deals on boxed sets at department stores or through wedding catalogs.

Gifts for bridesmaids

• Earrings
• Necklaces
• Engraved bracelets (engraved styles in pewter or silver are very affordable)